For what it's worth, guy at the battery store said the BR1225 is preferable, as it's a low-discharge unit that's designed for lengthy backup duty. The CR1225 "will work fine but won't last nearly as long." So, like the kids on South Park, I learned something today!
So I had a eureka moment while changing the batteries in my AFS 3500 and 3400 boxes. The batteries are held in with a little clip and are accessible through a hole on the top of the unit, under a screwed-on cover. Unfortunately, the clip holds the battery tightly, the hole is small, and the clipped-in battery arrangement is surrounded by little electrical gizmos that are dying to break. Meanwhile, if you drop the battery, it can go scurrying into the far corners of the box, which can't be good. It's sort of like playing that old game "Operation."
The instructions suggest grasping the battery with needle-nose pliers wrapped in tape, and putting a piece of paper around the inside of the hole to keep the battery from getting loose. The paper is a good idea. But I think tape-wrapped needle nose pliers are too large.
The low weight of the battery is the key factor in your favor. I found a small metal rod and put a very small glob of 3M VHB tape on the end of it. (That VHB stuff is amazing.)
I then used small masking-tape-wrapped bent-nose pliers to *carefully* and *gently* lift the retaining clip up a little bit, while gently harpooning the battery with the gooey VHB blob on the rod. The battery came right out and showed no interesting in doing anything other than sticking to the VHB blob and thus the metal rod. A new battery can be inserted in precisely the same way -- once it's under that metal clip, the VHB can be detached with no problem.
Just thought I would share this because it took me a while to figure it out.
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